Guidelines for Safe Relocation of Feral Cats

Introduction Many people would like to find a sanctuary for feral cats. Sanctuaries, however, are few and most ferals will not be happy living in confinement. They are wild animals and used to living outdoors.

Feral cats are social animals. Many biologists have completely overlooked this and consider lions to be the only social felines. Colony cats develop strong bonds with one another. When you relocate feral cats, you may be separating them and consequently causing them undue stress.

However if a caretaker is not available, or if the cats simply cannot remain at their present location for safety reasons, then relocation can be a viable option. But this has to be undertaken with great care and used as a last resort. Relocating a colony of feral cats is time consuming, new homes are difficult to find, and certain procedures have to be followed, otherwise the relocated cat may not remain on the new premises.

Assessment of the colony

Establish how many cats are in the colony so you will know how many homes you will need. Farm homes or horse stables are the best places for relocation. Most farmers will only take two to four cats. At least two cats from one colony should go together. They have bonded with one another and the move will be less traumatic. Adjusting to their new home will be easier if they have the security of a familiar companions.

Finding the new outdoor home

Contact friends and relatives who live in rural areas. Ask them to place notices in newspapers and in stores—especially tack supply stores. Feral cats can even be relocated to a backyard, especially one in a suburb. Make absolutely sure that the new home checks out before relocation. Another alleyway may be an option, especially if it is close to the original home. An alleyway further away will require a confinement period in a cage or playpen, not an easy task to accomplish unless a sympathetic neighbor will allow you to place a playpen in their backyard for a few weeks.

The new caretaker Must be interested in providing a good home. A country home only occupied on weekends is not acceptable. The cats need daily food and water. People must agree to provide basic needs, including veterinary care if necessary and sign an adoption contract (agreement) similar to one used for domestic cat placements

Be wary of homes on busy country roads. One may presume that these, not usually as busy as city roads, are less dangerous. City cats are used to slower city traffic and although there may be fewer cars on country roads they tend to go much faster.

Be careful of dogs at the new home. Although it may not be a problem, the new caretakers should be willing to introduce the dogs to the new cats slowly and not allow the cats to be chased, or they will leave.

Confinement period

Cats need to be confined initially in their new home for at least two to three weeks in order to familiarize the cats with their new environment, so that they will remain on the premises. Even though there are instances of cats remaining when they have escaped upon arrival, this is rare and most cats will take off, never to be seen again.

Other than being dangerous for the cat, this can be traumatic for the rescuer who has usually put a lot of time, energy, money, and care into the rescue.

Some people see confinement as cruel, but a short confinement period is a very necessary part of the relocation project.

Not confining the cats and having them run off could mean a far worse fate for the cats. You should warn the new caretaker that during the first day or two, the cats may struggle to find a way out. Most cats settle down in the cage after a day or two when they realize that no harm will befall them.

Tips for safe relocation:

Be skeptical if you are told the new barn is completely cat-proof and that the cats will not escape. There are few barns that really are escape-proof. Always take some cages/playpens along with you. Cats will escape through the tiniest hole.

Make sure the confinement area is located near a place where the cats can hide once they are allowed out of the playpen.

Successful confinement periods range from 14 days to 3 weeks.
A long confinement period, such as three to four months, is unnecessary and can be harmful to the cats and to the relocation project.

If a cat does escape, set food and water out and sprinkle their used litter (for scent) around the barn. Cats often hide for a period of time but will stay on the premises. Leave them plenty of food and water to prevent them from leaving in search of food.

Make sure the new caretaker will make contact with the cats by talking to them or by playing a radio softly so that they get used to human voices. It is usually those people make the effort to communicate with the cats who will have the most successful relocations.

You can relocate new cats into an already established colony. Introduce them slowly, as you would any new cat into your home. In a colony setting confine the new cats to a cat playpen in an area where the established cats sleep and eat.

After a two to three week period, the cats will be quite familiar with each other and when they are released, they all should live together in relative peace. Make sure ALL the cats have been sterilized. Most fighting occurs in unsterilized cats.

Follow-up Call or visit after the relocation

You will want to stay in touch to make sure the cats are fine and also to keep a contact for future relocations.

Conclusion:

Relocation can be a safe and viable option if undertaken properly and if these guidelines are followed. But remember that the very best option for a feral colony is to remain in their original home. Sometimes this may mean finding caretakers or fighting for the cats to stay at their present location.

If you do remove a whole colony, make sure the food sources disappear completely or other strays will move in to repopulate the area. This can sometimes be difficult to achieve especially when garbage is thrown out in backyards and alleyways. Check from time to time to ensure that no new cats have moved into the vacated territory.

In his landmark book, The Wild Life of the Domestic Cat, Tabor writes: “…in most sites in London where colonies have developed, if the site is good enough to support a healthy colony, eradication merely leaves an effective vacuum that envious cats around the corner are only too keen to fill. Therefore eradication over a large area such as London is doomed to failure.”

There have been some innovative programs around California where the unsterilized tame cats and kittens on farms have been replaced by sterilized feral city cats. The farm cats are then sterilized and placed in homes as companion animals and the feral city cats have a safe place to live. This is a good plan since many rural cats are never sterilized.

Alley Cat Rescue can provide assistance to those needing help with changing public policies at the state and local levels to enable managed feral cat colonies to remain in their homes.